Replacing palm oil in your cosmetic product development

In recent years, the cosmetic and personal care industry has faced increasing pressure to find sustainable alternatives to palm oil. Used extensively for its moisturising properties and texture-enhancing abilities, palm oil is unfortunately linked to significant environmental issues, including deforestation and loss of biodiversity. As consumer awareness grows, the industry is moving towards more eco-friendly alternatives that can replicate the desirable qualities of palm oil without the ecological footprint.

Exploring alternatives

Several natural oils and butters are stepping up as viable substitutes. These include shea butter, coconut oil, jojoba oil, and sunflower oil, each bringing similar benefits as palm oil. However, the challenge lies not just in replacing palm oil but in ensuring that these alternatives can meet the varying demands of different cosmetic products, from lotions and creams to lipsticks and conditioners.

The role of a Texture Analyser

This is where the Texture Analyser becomes an invaluable tool in the reformulation process. Texture Analysers provide precise and quantifiable data on various physical properties such as consistency, stickiness, spreadability, and firmness. These metrics are crucial when assessing whether a potential replacement mimics the sensory and physical characteristics of palm oil.

For instance, in a lotion or cream, the spreadability and consistency are key to consumer satisfaction and product efficacy. A Texture Analyser can help formulators understand how well a substitute matches or improves upon these properties when compared to palm oil-based formulations ensuring that these alternatives can mimic or deliver the desired texture attributes. Accurate texture measurement enables producers to fine-tune formulations, processing techniques, and ingredient combinations to achieve the desired texture profile.

Typical cosmetic physical property measurements:

Lipstick Cantilever Rig, Penetration testing,
Forward and Backward Extrusion tests

Checking you’ve succeeded in your reformulation

So, you’ve formulated your new product containing a palm oil substitute and you compare it with your existing product formulation on the Texture Analyser and this is the result:

Perfect reformulation provides the ‘same-as’ texture profile

Bingo, you’ve done it! Your new product formulation that has been fully considered in its new ingredients and necessary processing changes provides almost the same texture profile as your existing product. Ultimately, the success of new products relies on consumer satisfaction and acceptance. Texture measurement plays a crucial role in meeting consumer expectations and preferences. Consumers have ingrained sensory expectations when it comes to the texture of specific cosmetic or personal care products. By accurately measuring and replicating these textures, manufacturers can create new products that deliver both sustainability and an enjoyable consumer experience and with that comes continued product loyalty.

However, what if your two products produced considerably different texture profiles?

When the formulation or processing conditions
are not yet optimised compared to the original

Formulators would see that the formulation for the blue line product requires much more force to perform the same test than the red line product and therefore could be perceived as a much firmer product which could compromise customer satisfaction of the expected texture. Whilst it is possible that you’re looking to develop a product with a different texture to the original and make a marketing splash about it (having confirmed its success with a sensory panel), if you’re not, then it’s back to the drawing board for further formulation or processing manipulation.

Ensuring ongoing quality and consumer acceptance

A Texture Analyser can play a critical role in iterative testing throughout the development process. Once the formulation is mastered the Texture Analyser ensures that each batch of the product meets the same quality standards, providing consistency that is key to consumer trust and brand loyalty. Additionally, detailed texture analysis data can help in marketing these new formulations by providing concrete evidence (claim substantiation) of their comparable or superior sensory attributes.

Conclusion

As the cosmetic industry continues to evolve in response to environmental and ethical concerns, the integration of advanced tools like Texture Analysers will be crucial in transitioning to sustainable alternatives without compromising on quality. By investing in precise testing and analysis, brands can lead the way in sustainable innovation, meeting consumer demands for responsible products that don’t skimp on performance or experience.

Request a brochure highlighting the most popular tests for the assessment of cosmetic or personal care products.

There is a Texture Analysis test for virtually any physical property. Contact Stable Micro Systems today to learn more about our full range of solutions.

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For more information on how to measure texture, please visit the Texture Analysis Properties section on our website.

The TA.XTplusC texture analyser is part of a family of texture analysis instruments and equipment from Stable Micro Systems. An extensive portfolio of specialist attachments is available to measure and analyse the textural properties of a huge range of food products. Our technical experts can also custom design instrument fixtures according to individual specifications.

No-one understands texture analysis like we do!

Get in touch to discuss your specific test requirements