For skin and hair care, commodity components such as vegetable oils (e.g. palm kernel oil), butters, coffee, cacao beans and tea waste, are more widely used, or extracts such as citrus peel for pectin or preservative are obtained for inclusion in a formula. Dried fruit seeds discarded from the juice and jam industries can be cold pressed and transformed into precious essential oils. Even extracts of grapes waste from wine production can be used for pigmentation in natural hair dye and colour products.
Cosmetic brands are creating dedicated lines based on upcycled ingredients sometimes maximising on the textural attributes these new ingredients bring such as in the creation of body scrub (PDF). As cosmetic companies re-formulate their products using ingredients from waste streams there will be textural and sensory challenges to overcome with use and/or substitution of ingredients.
Cosmetic formulators are also striving to offer ‘clean-beauty’ product compositions that are free from harmful agents such as parabens, sulphates, phthalates, PEGs, ethanolamines, chemical sunscreens, synthetic fragrances, BHT, and BHA. In addition, formulators are looking at new powdered and solid forms that support the consumers eco-conscious zero packaging waste concerns. In the process of reformulation, however, the removal of ingredients and the creation of new product formats will have a knock-on effect on the texture and again formulators will need to use texture analysis to compare their ‘simplified’ formula with the textural expectations of products that consumers already like and have become familiar with.
What are the new ingredient and product ideas in cosmetics and skincare product research, development and production and how can a Texture Analyser be applied?
The cosmetics and skincare industries are perpetually evolving, spurred by technological advancements, emerging consumer trends, and a deeper understanding of skin biology. Here are some of the newer ingredient and product ideas in cosmetic and skincare research, development, and production and a typical academic reference to show how the Texture Analyser has already being applied:
- Clean beauty: Products formulated without potentially harmful ingredients, focusing on natural and organic components.
Example: "Pressed" for powders: Replacing dimethicone with plant-derived alternatives (PDF) - Microbiome-friendly products: Designed to support and balance the skin's natural microbial community.
Example: Evaluation of beeswax influence on physical properties of lipstick using instrumental and sensory methods - Adaptive skincare: Products that adapt to the user's skin needs, often involving encapsulated ingredients that release upon specific triggers.
Example: Rheological, mechanical, and bioadhesive behaviour of hydrogels to optimise skin delivery systems - Blue light protection: With increased screen time, there's a rising demand for products that protect the skin from the potential harmful effects of blue light.
Example: Effect of grape seed extract as a sunscreen booster (PDF) - Plant stem cells: Incorporated in formulations for their potential anti-aging and regenerative properties.
Example: Development and Characterization of Thermal Water Gel Comprising Helichrysum italicum Essential Oil-Loaded Chitosan Nanoparticles for Skin Care - Upcycled ingredients: Using by-products or waste materials from other industries (e.g., coffee grounds or fruit extracts) for their beneficial skin properties.
Example: The green generation of sunscreens: Using coffee industrial sub-products - Waterless cosmetics: Solid or anhydrous formulations that reduce the product's environmental footprint.
Example: The effect of different binders on the physical properties of syndet bars - Personalised beauty: Customised skincare or makeup products tailored to individual needs, preferences, or skin types.
Example: Evaluation of alkenones, a renewably sourced, plant‐derived wax as a structuring agent for lipsticks - Multi-functional products: Products that serve multiple purposes, such as a moisturiser with SPF or a tinted serum.
Example: Starch-and carboxymethyl cellulose-based films as active beauty masks with papain incorporation - Bio-fermented ingredients: Leveraging fermentation processes to derive potent ingredients or extracts with enhanced skincare benefits.
Example: Impact of the synergistic interaction between xanthan and galactomannan on the stickiness properties of residual film after application on a surface - Plant-based and vegan cosmetics: Formulations without animal-derived ingredients or by-products.
Example: Evaluation of alkenones, a renewably sourced, plant‐derived wax as a structuring agent for lipsticks - CBD and hemp-infused products: Formulations containing cannabidiol (CBD) or hemp oil for potential anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
- Texture innovations: Products that transition from one texture to another, such as balms that melt into oils or serums that turn into a mist.
The cosmetics and skincare industry is expected to continue evolving, with brands leveraging both technology and nature to cater to the increasingly sophisticated and informed consumer base.
Using a Texture Analyser in cosmetics and skincare development
Texture is a crucial parameter in cosmetics and skincare, affecting the application, feel, and efficacy of the product. The incorporation of the Texture Analyser in cosmetics and skincare product esearch and development (R&D) presents a comprehensive approach to enhancing the understanding of these products' properties, central to user experience. Spreadability assessment offers insights into how a product distributes on the skin, a crucial factor impacting application and satisfaction. Viscosity evaluation delves into the thickness and flow of serums, lotions, and gels, shaping their tactile feel during use. Adhesiveness analysis determines stickiness, especially relevant for lip glosses and specific primers. Elasticity and firmness measurements hold significance for creams, gels, and balms, offering insights into their texture and skin sensation.
The Texture Analyser further addresses pay-off and break strength for solid items like lipsticks or foundation sticks, assessing their release from solid form during application. Extrudability measurements are conducted for tube-packaged products like toothpaste or creams, quantifying the force needed for product extraction. Rub-out assessments offer understanding of how products behave when rubbed onto the skin, relevant for moisturisers and foundations. Compaction analysis scrutinises pressed powders, examining their compactness and transferability onto brushes or sponges. Gel strength determination is pivotal for gel-based products, discerning their firmness and consistency.
Texture Analysers can be combined with sensory evaluation panels to provide comprehensive insights into a product's tactile properties. A product's texture can greatly influence consumer satisfaction, making texture analysis crucial in product development and quality control. The Texture Analyser's scope extends to abrasion and wear assessments, crucial for long-wearing products, shedding light on their resilience to rubbing and durability over time. Through such analyses, the Texture Analyser collaborates with other testing methodologies to offer a comprehensive understanding of cosmetic and skincare performance. The insights derived from these evaluations guide formulation refinements, ensuring products meet the desired performance and sensory criteria for users. In cosmetics and skincare product R&D, the Texture Analyser emerges as an essential tool, facilitating meticulous analysis and fostering the creation of products that align with consumer expectations and market demands.
Typical cosmetic product test and resulting graph
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There is a Texture Analysis test for virtually any physical property. Contact Stable Micro Systems today to learn more about our full range of solutions.
For more information on how to measure texture, please visit the Texture Analysis Properties section on our website.
The TA.XTplusC texture analyser is part of a family of texture analysis instruments and equipment from Stable Micro Systems. An extensive portfolio of specialist attachments is available to measure and analyse the textural properties of a huge range of food products. Our technical experts can also custom design instrument fixtures according to individual specifications.
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