Meet the technology to find the best haircare for curls and kinks

The world of hair care can be a tangled web, especially for those with curly or kinky locks. Despite an increasing number of hair care brands targeting various hair textures, the vast majority of hair studies have focused on straight or wavy hair, particularly those of Asian or white origin. This has left many consumers feeling lost amidst conflicting advice and inconsistent results.

To help bring some clarity to this confusion, a team of scientists from Spelman University and the University of Massachusetts Amherst have set out to identify key hair properties that can help consumers select products and achieve more consistent results. Using their Texture Analyser, the team analysed the mechanical properties of wavy, curly, and kinky hair strands by uncurling and stretching them until they broke and measured the stresses, strains and forces to do this.

The traditional method of classifying hair types has been based on the degree of curl, but this approach fails to take into account the complexity of curly hair. The new method proposed by the researchers uses geometric and mechanical parameters to understand the structural differences between curly hair types. This approach involves analysing the shape and structure of the hair strands, as well as their mechanical properties, such as stiffness and elasticity. By analysing hair samples from different individuals, they were able to identify distinct geometric and mechanical parameters that can be used to classify curly hair types more accurately.

Among their ground-breaking findings, the team found a newly developed parameter called a “stretch ratio.” This ratio quantifies and compares the force that is needed to uncurl a strand of hair until it straightens. The ratio was negligible for straight hair, about 0.8 for wavy, 1.1 for kinky, and 1.4 for curly. The team believes that this measurement could be a quantifiable way of distinguishing between hair types since it indicates the initial curliness of hair.

The findings of this research could have significant implications for the hair care industry and represents a much needed step forward in the study of curly hair. The research team hopes that their work on understanding the structural differences of hair will pave the way for better hair product development by identifying the best parameters for various hair types. This will enable consumers to choose products that are tailored to their specific needs, leading to more consistent and satisfying results.

This research is titled "Reimagining Hair Science: A New Approach to Classify Curly Hair Phenotypes via New Quantitative Geometrical & Structural Mechanical Parameters", and it presents an innovative way of studying curly hair. Read more

Using a Texture Analyser for stretching hair is just one example of how hair and hair products can be characterised. Other applications include the measurement of hair stiffness by three-point bending, measuring the suppleness of hair or measuring hair combability.

Hair Suppleness Rig; Hair Stiffness Rig; Hair Combing Rig

See the full range of applications for hair and haircare product testing

Read more about how the Texture Analyser can be used in the hair and haircare industry by requesting the below articles.

For more information on how to measure texture, please visit the Texture Analysis Properties section on our website.

The TA.XTplusC texture analyser is part of a family of texture analysis instruments and equipment from Stable Micro Systems. An extensive portfolio of specialist attachments is available to measure and analyse the textural properties of a huge range of food products. Our technical experts can also custom design instrument fixtures according to individual specifications.

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