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How to measure and analyse the texture of food, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and adhesives.

Tuesday, 3 January 2023

Hair testing research round-up

In a world full with mirrors and Instagrammable opportunities, the way hair looks is generally at the top of the list of beauty priorities. It's no wonder, then, that haircare products account for a significant portion of the beauty market. Today's producers must attain product consistency and high standards, as well as novelty value and noticeable outcomes, if they are to succeed in keeping customers coming back for more.

The science of texture analysis has a wide range of applications in the haircare industry. With its compressive and tensile capabilities, the TA.XTplusC Texture Analyser can apply specially designed test techniques to examine an unrivalled range of physical qualities. These test methods can be used to evaluate claims about product performance by quantitatively testing the effects on hair.

It's a faced-paced, attention-seeking, secretive game where patents are necessary to protect new innovations and hair care novel inventions. It’s no wonder that the Texture Analyser has been found in the following patents and research to substantiate haircare claims.

Three-point Bending Tests on Hair

Compositions and Methods for Treating Hair  Patent from L’Oreal

The goals of many hair styling compositions include to hold or fix the hair in a particular shape, to impart or increase volume of the hair, and/or to smooth the hair, e.g. to decrease or eliminate the appearance of frizz. Drawbacks associated with current products include a sticky or tacky feel, and styled hair that is stiff and/or “crunchy” (i.e. the film is hard and brittle resulting in a crunching feel or sound when the hair is touched), which is undesirable for most consumers. This patent describes compositions containing at least two latex polymers, wherein at least one latex polymer is a film-forming polymer. The composition is capable of forming a film having certain properties on a substrate.

Process for Styling Human Hair  Patent from BASF

Hair styling products containing water or ethanol soluble polymers are very popular products in today's cosmetic market. Such products typically involve a liquid or wax/gel-like composition which is applied on wet or dry hair to obtain a certain long-lasting hair style. They can be produced as aerosol sprays, sprays, mousses, gels, waxes, serums or other textures. This patent describes a polymer formulation and styling process to allow for lower damage to heat treated hair.

Styling polymers and their influence on mechanical properties of hair styling gel  Research from Dabur Research and Development and Lubrizol, India

Many hair styling products are available on the market in the form of hair spray, gels, mousses, creams, waxes, lotions and pomade. Among these hair gels plays a vital role in hair styling segments. Bend tests are useful to estimate the stiffness of the hair after gel application, as do high humidity curl retention experiments, which assess style longevity. The formulation developed in this publication delivered high humidity resistance, excellent curl retention, superior hold and no flakes. The measurement of stiffness through bending was used to classify the gel into four categories – mild, gentle, strong and super hold.


Measuring hair friction

Composition for conditioning keratin fibers   Patent from L'Oreal

Keratin fibres, in particular the hair, is cleansed and treated with many cosmetic regiments to improve its look, colour and style. However, these various regiments can remove the hair's natural oils and impart structural damage to the hair. This patent describes a composition and cosmetic process for caring for keratin fibres. They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to measure the frictional force between the hair and a polyurethane pad, and from this the friction force reduction percentage after treatment was calculated.

Hair Conditioning Composition having Improved Rinse Properties   Patent from Unilever

Reducing the amount of water that is used in everyday tasks and activities, such as washing of hair, reduces the energy required to process and deliver it to homes, businesses and communities. This patent presents a conditioning composition that comprises a conditioning base and a hydrophobically modified anionic polymer that can be used in the treatment of hair to reduce the amount of water required to rinse without reducing the conditioning benefits on the hair. They found that when a consumer rinses conditioner from his/her hair, he/she will stop rinsing when a satisfactory constant level of smooth feel is reached (the “rinsed friction plateau”). The composition of the invention enables the consumer to reach his/her rinsed friction plateau sooner, when compared to a composition comprising the same ingredients but without the hydrophobically modified anionic polymer, thus causing him/her to stop rinsing and therefore consume less water.

Evaluation of the surface properties of hair with acoustic emission analysis   Research from Ashland Specialty Ingredients

The tactile sensation of hair is an important consumer‐perceivable attribute. There are limited instrumental options to measure the haptic properties of hair. This study introduced a novel technique using the acoustic emissions produced when skin comes in contact with dry hair in a stroking motion. Acoustic emission profiles were generated allowing the monitoring of the acoustic response at distinct frequencies. They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to determine the stroking force of the middle and index fingers over the hair tress. This study introduced a cutting‐edge method to reproducibly evaluate the surface properties of hair. Different types of hair geometry produce unique acoustic profiles as do hair types that experience harsh damaging treatments. This is also a very practical and efficient way to evaluate the degree of protection or conditioning of the fibre.


Hair tensile properties

Ionic liquid and ultrasound-assisted extraction of chestnut shell pigment with good hair dyeing capability   Research from Huazhong Agricultural University

To effectively extract the pigment from chestnut shell in a green and efficient way, an eco-friendly and efficient method based on ionic liquid ultrasonic assisted extraction (IL-UAE) was established. The physico-chemical properties of hair dyed with chestnut shell pigment extracted by IL-UAE were compared with those extracted by conventional organic solvents, using (amongst other methods) tensile testing of the hair samples.

Other hair property measurements, such as hair combing and hair volume, are also available.


MEASURING HAIR VOLUME WITH THE VOLSCAN PROFILER

See how Ashland, USA scientists Lidia Kulcsar, David Streuli, Roger L. McMullen, Coralie Alonso, Michael Franzke and Richard Giles have been using the Volscan Profiler to compare mousse samples containing Guar HPT Chloride or PQ-11 to evaluate volume.

View the full article and results


To review the typical types of tests used in the hair and hair product industry for texture measurement visit our Hair and Hair Product testing page

See how haircare industry leaders use texture analysis to get ahead of their competition

Alternatively request our articles that gives an overview of all of these methods for hair and hair product testing


There is a Texture Analysis test for virtually any physical property. Contact Stable Micro Systems today to learn more about our full range of solutions.



For more information on how to measure texture, please visit the Texture Analysis Properties section on our website.

TA.XTplusC texture analyser with bloom jar

The TA.XTplusC texture analyser is part of a family of texture analysis instruments and equipment from Stable Micro Systems. An extensive portfolio of specialist attachments is available to measure and analyse the textural properties of a huge range of food products. Our technical experts can also custom design instrument fixtures according to individual specifications.

No-one understands texture analysis like we do!

Get in touch to discuss your specific test requirements





 Watch our video about testing of hair and hair productsBrowse our range of hair and hair product testing solutions

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