Here are several recent examples of the use of Texture Analysis in cosmetic research and product development...
Researchers from Chanel Beauty Perfumes, Beauty and Innovation Research, have been investigating the relations between the sensory properties and fat ingredients of lipsticks.
Lipstick is a flagship make-up product with over 900 million units sold per year worldwide, including 300 million in Europe. It is the best-selling cosmetic product.
Although a consumer will buy a lipstick according to the colour and the make-up effect, she will only buy the same one again if she is attracted by the sensory nature of the product. Sensory properties such as slipperiness, smoothness, thickness of the coating, and a moisturising sensation are strategic criteria in repeating the purchase.
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| Lipstick Break Strength Rig A/LC |
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Meawhile, scientists from Normandy University have been researching the prediction of residual film perception of cosmetic products using an instrumental method and non-biological surfaces, with the example of stickiness after skin application.
The cosmetics market is very competitive, with a huge number of attractive products. To be distinguished from competitors, a cosmetic product has to be efficient but also pleasant to use, through its colour, fragrance and texture. The aim of this work is to investigate how residual sensory properties of cosmetic products can be predicted without using a panel of assessors, focusing on the residual film attribute “stickiness”.
They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to evaluate the adhesive property of residual film samples. Results strongly suggested that the physical stimulus responsible for cosmetic film stickiness can be instrumentally measured on both in vivo skin and artificial skin.
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In the UK, scientists from the University of Arts, London have been researching rheological and texture analysis methods for the assessment of viscoelasticity.
All semisolid cosmetic products belong to the group of viscoelastic materials, having both liquid-like (viscous) and solid-like (elastic) characteristics. It is of practical, as well as theoretical interest, to determine the position of a particular product on the viscoelastic scale.
Dynamic (oscillatory) rheology is a standard method used to assess viscoelasticity, whereby an oscillating shear stress is applied to the sample and the resulting strain measured as its response.
The purpose of this study was to compare the dynamic oscillatory rheological method with a novel texture analysis method for the assessment of viscoelastic properties of cosmetic semisolids. They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to perform immersion-deimmersion tests at a constant temperature.
The analysis revealed consistent trends related to two novel TA parameters: stringiness (which decreased with the increase in thickener concentration) and resilience (which has shown a mild increasing trend). Elastic modulus G’ and viscous modulus G’’ (both at 1 Hz) were positively correlated to resilience and negatively correlated to stringiness, indicating that those TA parameters reflect the viscoelastic status of the sample.
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Researchers from Lubrizol Advanced Materials have been investigating the prediction of lipstick sensory properties with lab tests.
Sensory perceptions and performance are important to the success of a lipstick formulation, but in‐vivo evaluation can be expensive and time‐consuming.
The goal of this work was to develop and use lab test methods to predict the sensory and performance properties of lipstick.
The researchers used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to perform a tack test on the samples. The emollient was found to have a significant effect on the sensory and performance properties of a lipstick, which can be predicted with the developed laboratory tests. The methods presented may help to speed up the development and optimisation of future lipstick formulations.
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Meanwhile, a patent has recently been filed by L’Oreal entitled “Compositions and Methods for Treating Hair”.
The goals of many hair styling compositions are to hold or fix the hair in a particular shape, to impart or increase volume of the hair, and to smooth the hair, e.g. to decrease or eliminate the appearance of frizz.
Drawbacks associated with current products for styling the hair include that the product is often sticky or tacky or produces a film that imparts a sticky feel, and styled hair that is stiff or crunchy (i.e. the film is hard and brittle resulting in a crunching feel or sound when the hair is touched), which is undesirable for most consumers.
It has now been discovered that by providing a composition comprising at least two latex polymers (one of which being a film-forming polymer), it is possible to form a film on a substrate that has desirable properties, such as a clean, natural, or “invisible” feel, and a lack of stickiness. Such compositions may be useful in hair-styling applications where styling benefits such as natural look, curling or straightening, and styling hold are imparted to hair.
The researchers used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to perform mechanical tests on hair samples, cycling three point bend hair tress specimens to a given deformation and calculating the change in bending force from cycle number one to cycle number ten.
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Stable Micro Systems can help out with many areas of efficacy testing. To find out more, contact us today.
We can design and manufacture probes or fixtures for the TA.XTplus texture analyser that are bespoke to your sample and its specific measurement.
Once your measurement is performed, our expertise in its graphical interpretation is unparalleled. Not only can we develop the most suitable and accurate method for the testing of your sample, but we can also prepare analysis procedures that obtain the desired parameters from your curve and drop them into a spreadsheet or report designed around your requirements.
For more information on how to measure texture, please visit the Texture Analysis Properties section on our website.
The TA.XTplus texture analyser is part of a family of texture analysis instruments and equipment from Stable Micro Systems. An extensive portfolio of specialist attachments is available to measure and analyse the textural properties of a huge range of food products. Our technical experts can also custom design instrument fixtures according to individual specifications.No-one understands texture analysis like we do!
To discuss your specific test requirements click here...
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