Seaweed can be a source of natural texturisers for the personal care industry and here Cargill explains how they produce their carrageenans sustainably. Carrageenans are very versatile molecules widely used in the food and personal care industry for properties like gelling, thickening, stabilisation, water-binding and providing a wide variety of textures. They can be formulated in skin care products like serums, gels, emulsions, creams, lotions, toners and in skin cleansing products like face wash, bodywash, shaving gels, face masks and in hair care products like shampoos, leave on hair gels, styling hair gel. In personal care, carrageenans are mainly used in oral care applications, with more than 70% of the total volume used being dedicated to oral care products like toothpaste and mouthwash. Iota and lambda carrageenan exhibit shear thinning properties which have a desirable dual advantage. The first is related to packaging. When shear is applied, the product with carrageenan is easy to pump as it decreases in viscosity showing shear thinning behaviour. The second advantage is with application of the product on skin. When shear is applied in the form of rubbing, the product is much easier to spread and gives good skin coverage with a non-tacky, soft and smooth sensory performance.
Ashland has launched ‘dreamy textures’, a collection of four nature-derived formulations with novel textures, as research shows that consumers are seeking to lower stress levels with at-home pampering sessions. The four dreamy texture formulations include: Beauty sleep gel cream: a is a delightfully luxurious and fresh, quick vanishing texture; Counting sheep butter-in-gel is an innovative texture with a unique appearance that transforms into a smooth cream and melts on the skin upon application. Resetting lunar mask is a novel cream texture that resets to a smooth surface after each use and leaves a velvety soft skin feel. Dreamy renewing butter a deliciously rich, buttery texture that melts on contact with skin leaving a powdery, velvety finish.
As formulators seek raw materials with a perfect combination of natural feel and human skin softness, natural silicones are creating more possibilities. Hunan Silok Silicone has invested a lot in the R&D of their natural series of products. The latest result of this is the modified silicone oil SiCare-2802. In the development of a new product, formulators need to strictly control the compatibility of various ingredients to ensure the stability of the formulation. The variable compatibility of different kinds of oil can greatly limit the scope of material under consideration. Formulators must also consider the final skin affinity and texture of the product and this is where texture analysis is employed.
Within the cosmetics and personal care industries there have been some technical advancements that have required texture analysis methods to measure the effect of formulation on texture and provide claims substantiation to the texture property under scrutiny. Here are a range of patents from users of the TA.XTplus Texture Analyser:
Estee Lauder
Long Wear Skincare Compositions
Existing facial peel-off masks often include PVP or PVA, which can be uncomfortable, especially for consumers with sensitive skin. They are also difficult to remove. Many masks that are intended to be worn for an extended periods, such as eight hours, are not transfer resistant. This can be true of overnight treatment masks where transfer of product to a pillow is likely. This patent disclosed specific combinations of acrylates/VA copolymer and acrylates copolymer in a cosmetically acceptable base or delivery vehicle. Such compositions were useful as high shine colour cosmetic compositions that are flexible and resistant to water below about 43° C. The compositions wear well, are transfer, smudge and flake resistant, as well as oil resistant, making them very suitable as high shine, long wear cosmetics. They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to measure film properties.
Procter & Gamble
Packaged Personal Cleansing Product
Personal Care Composition with Increased Vapour Release
A challenge faced by body wash users is that the liquid properties of the body wash composition which allow it to be easily dispensed from a package onto the hand or implement used for cleansing, also allow it to flow off the hands or implement, making it difficult to close the package and start lathering without the product falling onto the floor and being wasted. As such, there is a desire for an improved body wash which is less likely to fall from the intended surface and be lost down the drain. They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to measure dispensing velocity, weighing the package before and after the test.
Personal care compositions are routinely used by consumers on the chest, back and/or throat to provide relief from nasal congestion, dry cough, chest congestion, muscle aches and/or pains, and difficulty sleeping due to the common cold and/or flu. Olfactory compositions can be released from the personal care composition as vapours, which are inhaled through the nose and can provide the sensation of cooling and relief. However, some consumers find that current products are not strong enough to provide the desired level of symptom relief. There is a need for a personal care composition that provides a strong sensory experience that is noticeable to users without irritating the skin and while maintaining physical stability and texture. They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to perform measurements with a Spreadability Rig.
Dow Silicones
Cosmetic Composition Comprising Silicone Materials
There is an ongoing need for silicone materials that provide for care of keratinous substrates and improved aesthetics in cosmetic applications, a need for hair care compositions that give hair shiny appearance without an oily feel and look, a need for composition with good in-use experience, that look and feel better, and are more stable over time in terms of phase separation and aggregation, and finally, a need for cosmetic compositions that provide improved coverage and hiding of wrinkles, fine lines, and pores, with improved moisturising effect, while also providing a smooth, light feeling to the skin. This patent describes cosmetic compositions comprising a silicone based material cured via a condensation cure chemistry and at least one cosmetic ingredient, in a cosmetically acceptable medium. They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to measure penetration force of samples, determining cure properties.
Chanel
The use of lipsticks as means for colouring lips has undergone rapid growth, such that lipsticks are now widespread beauty products. A cosmetically acceptable lipstick should spread easily, have a homogeneous colour and exhibit a melting point above body temperature. Moreover, it should give the lips a smooth but non-greasy appearance and should retain the consistency thereof without exudation, oozing, rupture or disintegration phenomena occurring. A lipstick should not only have the qualities described above, but above all give the lips a smooth and creamy sensation and protect them from drying or chapping. It is particularly difficult to obtain such a smooth and creamy sensation using lipsticks having a reduced sheen or gloss, namely a matte appearance. The aim of this patent was to provide a lipstick with a matte and colour-intense appearance and a homogeneous and light texture and which remains so over time. They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to perform hardness measurements.
Scientists from the University of Toledo have been researching rheology-texture-sensory relations when using green, bio-derived emollients in cosmetic emulsions. Product aesthetics and sensory performance can strongly influence a cosmetic product’s acceptance by consumers. However, classic sensory analysis is time‐consuming, expensive and does not provide information on the target group’s preference.The goals of this research were to quantitatively characterize the rheology and textural properties of the six cosmetic emulsions containing green, bio‐derived emollients and identify statistical relationships between the consumers’ description of products and instrumental measurements. They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to perform physical measurements on these samples. Certain sensory attributes were found to be reliably predicted with instrumental measurements. Identifying and quantifying sensory–texture–rheology relationships can contribute to achieving appropriate product characteristics tailored to suit market needs. Read more
If you wish to investigate more about texture analysis in the cosmetics and personal care industries you could:
Request our articles that give an overview of all of the methods available for cosmetic and skincare product testing
Read more blog posts about Cosmetics and Skincare Texture Analysis
View Published References on research using our instruments for cosmetic testing
View Patents that refer to our instruments for testing of cosmetic products
See how Cosmetic Industry Leaders use Texture Analysis to get ahead of their competition
Stable Micro Systems can help out with many areas of efficacy testing. To find out more, contact us today.
We can design and manufacture probes or fixtures for the TA.XTplus texture analyser that are bespoke to your sample and its specific measurement.
Once your measurement is performed, our expertise in its graphical interpretation is unparalleled. Not only can we develop the most suitable and accurate method for the testing of your sample, but we can also prepare analysis procedures that obtain the desired parameters from your curve and drop them into a spreadsheet or report designed around your requirements.
For more information on how to measure texture, please visit the Texture Analysis Properties section on our website.
The TA.XTplus texture analyser is part of a family of texture analysis instruments and equipment from Stable Micro Systems. An extensive portfolio of specialist attachments is available to measure and analyse the textural properties of a huge range of food products. Our technical experts can also custom design instrument fixtures according to individual specifications.No-one understands texture analysis like we do!
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